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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 5:13 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2009 8:36 am
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I was tilling my garden, and while keeping the tractor running, and the pto off, I tried putting on the parking break. When I flipped the parking break lever, it started to kill the engine, and when I'd release it, the engine would resume like normal. I turned it off, it wouldn't start again. I put in another alternator I know still works, and it still wouldn't start. It doesn't engage the starter at all. I'm assuming one of the safety features is stopping it from starting. Does anyone have any experience with this or any pointers? I'd like to bypass the safety features all together, but anything to get it working would be great.

Marcus


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 6:36 pm 
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What are the numbers on the tractor's data decal - likely under the left side of the seat. I'd like to look at a wiring diagram to see what you have.

Garry


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:46 am 
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The model # is 73450 and serial # 220000190
I tested the solenoid as well, and it's not that.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 1:14 pm 
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There are 4 relays controling the starter solenoid circuit not including the solenoid it's self. Two for the power to it and two for the ground to it. The seat switch, neutral switch, parking brake and pto switch control them. Best you download the Demystification Guide from
https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm
Enter your 73450 model number and the 220000190 serial number. There is a section on your tractor at page 10-1 and it breaks down the individual circuits so they are much easier to understand.

Think I would be looking at the parking brake switch and it's wiring first. The wiring diagram in the OM calls it a park switch.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Garry


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 2:34 pm 
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I think I found the problem.
I found this part broken off and loose in the body of the tractor:
95-7683
MAGNET CLIP ASM

This is attached to the shift lever and completes the neutral circuit. I hope my dealer would stock this part, but I doubt it. I wonder if I could just use a piece of sheet metal and wrap it around the lever. I guess my other option would be to krazy glue the broken part to the lever. Jerry-rigging might be my only short-term solution.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 3:33 pm 
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Will taping the metal clip right to the neutral magnet switch hurt anything?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 7:03 pm 
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Putting the magnetized clip back on the shift lever (completing the neutral safety switch) didn't make the tractor start. I took the bloody tractor apart and checked out the parking break switch and wiring, which seems fine at a glance. I unfortunately don't have much experience with wiring to know otherwise. I'm not sure how the seat safety switch works, so am not sure how to test that. I also don't see where there is a clutch safety switch. I can't believe they would build such a ludicrous safety system for starting a garden tractor.
Needless to say, I'm extremely frustrated and can't believe I'm going to have to take the machine in. This is my second wheel horse, and like my 1973, it seems consistent with being broken down far more than working, which is very disappointing for a 2002 machine. This is the first time I've put this machine to the test (just acquired it this spring). Is it an inside joke that Wheel Horse's are tough machines? My 1992 Noma Deluxe 12hp riding mower is 1000x more reliable than any Wheel Horse I've owned.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 7:18 pm 
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What is happening? It won't crank or cranks but won't run? Do you have a 12 volt test light? Did you download the huge Demystification Guide. If not I will pull out the pages on your model and email to you if I can find your address.

Garry


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 10:33 pm 
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It never makes it past solenoid. No power going to the starter at all. I got the demystification guide ok, and I assume it has to be one of the switches: neutral, pto or seat. I don't really know much electrical systems unfortunately. I reattached the magnetized clip temporarily, but it doesn't seem to be helping. I have no idea how to check if the seat switch is working, nor if the pto switch is working properly. Turning the electric clutch switch with the battery powered on does engage and disengage the pto. I'm not sure what I should be trying to replace to weed out the culprit. I don't have a 12V tester. I guess I need to find a book or a good web site going over the basics of how to figure out such things. Part of the problem is I just don't have the time right now, as my wife as expecting a baby any moment now. I'm just getting frustrated because I can't afford to let it sit and not work. I have to finish tilling for our market garden before the baby comes.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 7:18 am 
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You should be able to test everthing with a simple 12 volt test light but try this first. Should double check the fuses. Looks like a 10 amp supplies the ignition and safety circuits.
For the starter to work
(1) the pto must be off (sounds like it is working ok)
(2) Parking brake must be on (this is suspect because that is when the problem started Remove the connector and temporarily jump the yellow and black wires)
(3) Transmission must be in neutral (this is suspect because the bracket broken Remove the switch connector and temporarily jump the pink and violet wires)
(4) Operator must be in the seat (there should be a connector under the seat - disconnect and place a temporary jumper between pink and possibly orange wire

Install the above jumpers one at a time starting with the seat. That way you do not have to be in it. Make sure the transmission is in neutral and try to crank the starter. If it cranks that is the switch at fault. If it does not crank leave the seat jumper connected and jump the neutral switch and try to crank again. If it cranks that is the switch at fault. If it does not crank leave the neutral jumper installed and add the brake jumper. Now it should crank.
AND if it does not crank -
With all the jumpers installed and the ignition switch in the ON position but engine not running, remove and reinstall each jumper. You should hear a relay click when you make the jumper connection.

Let us know what you find.

Garry


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 9:27 am 
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So I took the tractor in to a local shop, and the Neutral switch breaking also fried the seat switch somehow. They just ended up bypassing both switches and now she runs again just dandy. Only $40 for the fix. Not too bad. I got my tilling done last night! The 315-8 is surprisingly so much beefier than my old 1973 16 hp auto. It doesn't get bucked around at all. It also really helps with the low range gears. I think the tractor will be great for snowblowing as well.
Thanks for the help Garry. Sorry I was getting a bit frustrated.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:14 am 
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I had the same problem, last year at the beginning of the season I serviced the tractor, waxed it and sharpened the blades. when I went to start it nothing happened. Made a jumper to put in the seat switch so I could start the tractor using a screw driver crossing the poles on the solenoid. I replaced the solenoid, ignition switch and 4 relays. I mowed all last season starting the tractor with a screw driver. This season I was set on figuring this out. I used an ohmmeter and checked all the switches, seat, reverse, pto. Everything looked fine. After fiddling with this tractor all weekend I came across this post. I did not notice the switch just under the seat and that the magnet clip (95-7683) was missing off the gear shift. It was resting on the gear box this whole time. I am lucky it did not vibrate off while mowing all last season. I glued it back on the shaft and it fired right up! I spent over $200 on replacing 4 relays, an ignition switch, and a new solenoid and it turned out to just need a little glue!


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 8:58 am 
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Joined: Sat May 15, 2010 3:48 pm
Posts: 36
Location: North Jersey
I just bought a 2001 312-8 w/ the OHV 12.5 Kohler because of that neutral safety switch. I got it for $200! I spent another $200 rebuilding the carb and replacing what appears to be the original air filter and drivebelt.

The poor guy who sold it was fed up. He replaced the relays, clipped some of the safety switches and wire nutted them together. He even replaced a fuel pump.

Overall this machine could be in a showroom w/ a good waxing!


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